By Carole Dennett
Paul Semple, general manager of Waverley Excursions, has a lifelong connection to the world’s last seagoing paddle steamer. He first sailed on PS Waverley at the age of five. His summer catering job aboard, during his university years in the mid-1990s evolved into a voluntary role while teaching – and six years ago became a full-time mission to preserve this iconic vessel. And while his advice is “never think too far ahead with Waverley”, he clearly plans to stick around for some time to come.
With Waverley sailing to, from, and around the Isle of Wight until September 21, the IW Observer caught up with Paul during a popular steam day out, where passengers transferred from Waverley to the Isle of Wight Steam Railway. The nostalgic travel experiences clearly struck a chord with locals and visitors alike.
Islanders eagerly anticipate Waverley’s annual visit, drawn by the rhythmic sound of her paddles, the distinctive steam whistle, and towering funnels. Though fewer piers remain today, the spirit of leisurely and stylish travel endures. For steam enthusiasts, this is surely a dream job – but Paul’s first challenge as general manager was raising £2.3 million to replace the ship’s boilers. Then came the pandemic, delaying her return until 2022. However, her triumphant comeback saw sold-out sailings and renewed public affection.
Tomorrow (Saturday), Waverley – who turns 80 next year – will sail alongside fellow Clyde-built steamship, Shieldhall, in the Solent, marking her 70th anniversary. Paul expects a joyful celebration of cheering and “lots of tooting.”
Waverley’s evolving itinerary, including a long-awaited return to Weymouth in 2025, aims to engage all generations. Senior ‘bring a friend’ discounts and ‘kids for a pound’ offers help to bring passengers aboard and engage the attention of future steam enthusiasts. Paul was not the only one who sailed in her as a child. So did the ship’s master, and chief engineer. For Paul, sharing the ship with younger generations is a way of giving back – offering low-cost school trips and preserving a living link to Britain’s maritime heritage.
Behind the scenes, Paul and his team oversee every aspect of maintenance, commissioning bespoke engineered replacement parts, and investing over £1 million each winter to keep her ‘shipshape’. The Paddle Steamer Preservation Society plays a vital role in fund-raising and support. And as Waverley receives no regular public subsidy, public donations and ticket sales keep her afloat. As Paul puts it, “We need the passengers coming up the gangway to keep her going. Waverley IS the business; there’s nothing else.”
Working paddle steamers are rare. In the UK, only Waverley and Kingswear Castle remain operational. Paul’s passion runs deep – on a recent holiday, he visited 16 Swiss paddle steamers, admiring their pristine condition and the advantages of freshwater sailing. Waverley’s sea-going nature is responsible for higher costs and many of the challenges of Paul’s job.
Waverley Excursion’s touring model – short stays in regions around Britain, alongside working from her home port of Glasgow and along the Clyde coast – boosts ticket sales and local economies. A recent survey valued her UK economic impact at £11.6 million, and businesses, like Gossip’s Café at Yarmouth Pier, feel the benefit during her Island season.
Paul has his favourite routes: sailing around the Island is one, not least because of the enduring and enthusiastic support Islanders have given to the vessel as it faced so many challenges. Another is the magical evening cruise up the Thames when Tower Bridge opens for her. (“It’s like she’s being welcomed into London,” he says.) “But,” he adds, “the greatest feeling is watching people watch Waverley. Then you feel as though you’ve done something right. People are enjoying this.”
Waverley also fosters a unique community. Passengers form friendships, know the crew by name, and some even follow her around the country to experience different routes. “She’s a much-loved ship – all around the country,” Paul explains.
As she approaches her 80th birthday, Paul, the crew, and all who appreciate the history, the engineering, and the beauty of PS Waverley remain committed to steering her legacy forward. For those who love tradition, this historic paddle steamer continues to enchant, educate, and endure.